Marta S. Wendlinger | One 2 One Fashion
Only a few years ago, things were different. Madrid and Barcelona were constantly competing to become the “Fashion Capital” of Spain; it was an issue of pride and politics. In an attempt to resolve the conflict, the agencies that organize the Cibeles and Gaudi Pasarelas came together to discuss the possibility of establishing a single Pasarela, with the hopes of placing Spain at the forefront of fashion. No agreement was ever reached, but things did change in Barcelona; it stopped competing.
With the establishment in 2000 of Circuit, hailed as the alternative, avant-garde and innovative forum for young and non-mainstream designers, the “fashion power” in Spain began to shift. Circuit, bringing Barcelona along with it, became a pioneer, not only in Spain but in Europe for taking fashion to the limits by merging together different art and design disciplines and finally opening up the fashion world to the public.
But Circuit wasn’t the only organization breaking new ground. Barcelona counted on ModaFAD, the arm of FAD (Barcelona’s Decorative Arts Foundation), whose mission is to promote young fashion designers, those still studying or recently graduated by providing them with their own pasarela, PasaFAD, and by showcasing their talent in MerkaFAD, an all day and night affair, a springboard where they get the chance to sell their creations to the public and begin building a client-base.
These pioneering forces created a world of its own, making fashion more democratic; opening doors for many that were previously closed; and allowing for new ways of “doing fashion.” And there’s certainly competition to be a part of it; it’s hip, challenging, and inventive. Local Catalan, Spanish, and a myriad of international designers from all corners of the globe: Russia, Finland, China, the Americas, to name only a few, come to Barcelona to attend prodigious fashion schools; learn from established designers; participate in the evolving market; and ultimately be discovered.
Barcelona, unlike any other city, offers a complete mix: well-known design studios line the same streets in the Borne or the Raval with up-and-coming designers. Established heavy hitters such as Josep Font,
Lydia Delgado (CLICK FOR AN INTERVIEW), and Antonio Miro share the city’s energy with new talent and innovation from young designers such as Gloria Rodriguez Figueroa, who creates designs based on the application of the Braille system;
Cecilia Sörensen (CLICK FOR AN INTERVIEW), who designs a whole line of clothing using re-cycled material, mostly men’s shirts and sheets; and
Silvia Garcia Presas (CLICK FOR AN INTERVIEW), who has established a design team made up of ex-students of the Royal College of Art in London. This dynamic combination of elements has created a haven for a whole generation of designers wanting to become part of the Barcelona fashion world.
Although Barcelona fashion has come along way, it’s likely to continue to change in the near future. This year’s decision by the Department of Commerce, Tourism, and Consumerism, which designates millions of euros every year to promote fashion through the Barcelona Fashion Week (BFW), has announced that a Fashion Committee composed of designers, schools, and associations will be established to discuss the evolution of BFW as part of the textile industry’s globalization and, in all likelihood, redefine the event’s management model which has always been in the hands of Paco Flaque, Director of Moda Barcelona. This may now be up for grabs.
Regardless of the changes that are likely to occur in the Barcelona fashion scene, no one can deny its bright future; it’s an enviable place to be.