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Marta S. Wendlinger | One 2 One Fashion

Barcelona Fashion Week
7 days of style: Barcelona Fashion Week kicks off with a host of exciting local talent (PDF) (Thurs 22 Sep 05)
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On Saturday night, outside of Fabrica Moritz on Ronda Sant Antoni, the 22nd Edition of PasaFAD was taking place. Walking through the old factory… a maze really, electronic music pounded, down flights of windy stairs, unfinished stone and cement, exposed electrical wiring and pipes, drops of water raining down on the audience, puddles of water on the floor, and beer kegs lined the length of the catwalk.

A stylish, hip crowd -- chatting, smoking, “posing” -- mixed in with older “fashion industry” people, waited for Andrea Ayala’s show to begin. It all began with mystical, psychedelic music which reminded me of drops of water, apropos for the locale. Her collection featured blue and black dresses, pleated skirts with geometrical designs, funky layered skirts and pants, male loafer shoes, an interesting mix of fabrics, male inspired butler’s jackets, and even a few jackets that instantly reminded me of the hunchback of Notre Dame… interesting to say the least.

After an interminable wait for the next show -- at least there was good hip-hop music to take the sting off -- came the catwalk featuring various up and coming young designers. One designer showcased a modern sailor look set against Madonna’s song “Papa Don’t Preach” with navy blue pea coats, typical white sailor hats, red belts, black and white striped skirts, and very high heels – giving it all a 40’s feel. Another collection featured an ethnic look with batik fabric, a mix and match of colors and patterns, with wide fabric bracelets and decorated Nike sneakers. Then came French style music sung in Spanish highlighting an elegant satin purple top and bright green mini skirt, an electric blue cocktail dress with high bronze sandals, fishnet stockings, white satin gloves, feathers in the model’s hair, embroidered hats, small fancy handbags and finished off with a gold lame dress… all very glamorous.

A few prizes were given to the best collection, best model, and most contradictory designer, presented by executives of Bread & Butter, the hottest new fashion fair to hit Barcelona which debuted in July.

But not everything happening during BFW was endorsed. Shows also took place outside of the “official circuit.” One such show was “Huellas Cubanas” by Ute Prause, a German teacher at Barcelona’s Universitat Autonoma, gone fashion designer. Hers is a love story for the “pueblo” of Cuba.  During her various stays in Cuba, she developed many personal and professional relationships which led her to design a collection inspired in the colors, people, and music of Cuba. She presented it for the first time in La Havana, where it was well received, and she returned to show her collection where the process began: El Raval. It’s a combination between her Caribbean experience and the urbanism of her long-standing neighborhood.

While we waited for the show to start in the Placa de Vicenc Martorell, finally in the glorious sunshine, where a makeshift catwalk (basically a long large grey rug) was set-up; loud, upbeat Cuban music began and the first models stuck the runway.

They wore tops, pants, dresses, shorts in flower-inspired fabrics in bright, bright tones of red, orange, green, and turquoise along with flower bracelets, shell necklaces and earrings, seed belts, high heel pumps and sandals – and you couldn’t forget the oh so hip “shades.” Other designs featured pastel colors: peach, yellow, fuchsia and even some white and green dresses, tops, and skirts highlighting geometrical shapes stripes and circles. Other pieces were in teal, dark blue, florescent green and lovely white and turquoise dresses with multi-colored laces dangling from the front openings, and even an all black pantsuit with a cool cream fishnet hat. Her entire collection highlighted designs with lots of movement, created to show-off a women’s unique body and grace. Needless to say a very interesting and diverse collection, combining different fabrics from cottons to linens and gauze -- all light and airy -- again highlighting that distinctive and irresistible Caribbean feeling.

After Ute’s catwalk, I headed back to Fabrica Mortiz for an afternoon of shopping, where the public could purchase items from the ModaFAD designers; people outside were milling about, checking out their purchases. But at the entrance there was a mountain of yellow plastic hard top hats, I guess there to protect the public from anything falling on your head, being that the site is under construction.

The space was packed as usual, music blaring “Back to Life… Back to Reality” and provisional stands were set-up representing students from some of the major fashion design schools in the area: Felicidad Dulce, ESDi, and IDEP. The designers sold everything: sweaters, jackets, skirts, shirts, pants in all types of fabrics, all forms. There were also accessories: jewelry, hats, bags, and belts. Even though it seemed much smaller than last year, it was just as crowded and hot, but even so, it was a wonderful opportunity to speak with the newest generation of fashion designers. Young and old alike roamed between the stands, looking for that “something special.” I’m sure there was something for everyone.
Marta's 'Fashion Savvy or Fashion Faux Pas' section on Barcelona Reporter

Marta's articles which have appeared in Catalonia Today

Interviews with designers

Barcelona Fashion Week

Coverage of other Barcelona fashion news and events



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