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Marta S. Wendlinger | One 2 One Fashion
Coverage of other Barcelona fashion news and events
Brazil top scorers in the dressing room: Three of the European epicentres of the fashion world - Paris, Barcelona, Milan and London’s Chelsea district - are also home to major football clubs. But the question is, can these highly successful teams cut it on the catwalk as well as on the pitch? ( PDF) (Thurs 29 Sep 05)
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Rarely are articles written about sports and fashion, but we thought that this was worth mentioning. Football “kits” for those of you like me, unaware of what that even means, are the football (i.e. soccer) players’ outfits. As many of you can imagine, they are quite the rage among adult male and boy football fans and are also considered “fashion statements.” Not only is one team or another considered more fashion/hip than another one depending on the look and design of the kit but the amount of money involved in designing, re-designing, and marketing these kits is on par with the financial commitment made any internationally renowned fashion designer.
Taking as a starting point the most “fashionable” capitals in Europe: Barcelona, Paris, London, and Milan, we’ll compare the new September 2005 kits and decide if any team lives up to the reputation of their city. All teams: FC Barcelona, Paris Saint Germain, Chelsea FC, and AC Milan are currently favorites to win the European Cup and are considered the best teams in their countries. A discussion of these teams’ football kits and unique histories will be set against the enviable success of the Brazilian national football team CBF, having had one of the most famous players of all time: Pele, and one of the most internationally popular football kits among fans and non fans alike. With its widely accepted and recognized colors and sexy connotation, anyone, even me, as unfamiliar as I am with football, knows that the Brazilian football colors were yellow and green. That’s great marketing…
Clearly, coming out with new football kits each season, or for every European Cup, or Special Championship game is an enormous money-making enterprise not only for the football teams themselves but for the corporate sponsors, among them Nike, Addidas, Umbro, etc. It’s no secret that Real Madrid “bought” David Beckham because he would sell more t-shirts than any other player in the league considering his status as an internationally known fashion icon with extraordinary marketing potential in Europe and Asia.
So how does a city “become” a fashion capital? It’s not something tangible that someone can point to; it’s more of a combination of characteristics that sets one city off from the rest. Fashion “moves” us. Even those people who say that they could care less about what’s “in” and what’s “out” choose to wear something everyday as they leave their homes, that regardless of if they want it to or not, says a lot about who they are.
But at the same time, fashion is constantly changing. Once identified, it changes again. New fashion trends come from movies, television, and music, oftentimes dictated by major cultural icons, political figures, in some cases royalty but one can also see examples from “the street.” Fashion reveals what groups’ people belong to, but by doing so, create unfair stereotypes and boundaries between different groups of people. It serves as a mirror of society, in terms of cultural, social, and psychological awareness. If a person accepts or rejects a certain fashion, in essence, that person is accepting or reacting against statements made by the society in which he or she lives. Fashion also tells us something about the person who wears the clothes and in some intangible way communicates, at least on some level, part of their inner life. Being “fashionable” is synonymous with being “popular” and in a way it also allows people to accommodate the many faces we all have; perhaps one day preferring Chanel, the next -- the grunge look, and the following day 60’s hippie style skirt.
It comes to no surprise, that fashion also serves other purposes, for example protection from the elements, a way of attracting someone, an emotional statement about how we feel at the moment, religious expression, identification of certain professional groups, and finally tradition --- most brides in the Western world wear a long white dress.
But fashion is also big, big business. Everyday and every hour, millions of people around the world design, sew, sell, buy, market, and transport clothing --- more than any other business in the world today.
Brazil somehow has managed to become an unspoken fashion capital of the world. The New York Times proclaimed 2000, the year of Brazilian fashion, being that the international fashion field, clearly saturated, was no longer limited by the traditional circuit of Paris, London, Milan, and NY. But it wasn’t always like that. When the Portuguese landed in Brazil, the native fashion was bare and raw: a bikini (plain or painted with geometrical shapes) tied around the waist and jewelry made out of raw materials: feathers and seeds, and body decorations. Regardless of the limited amount of clothing, the native woman had tremendous natural charm, something that’s still reflected in present-day Brazilian women: long, flowing hair; the ease in which they show their bodies through the styles of clothes they wear -- oftentimes showing off more than they conceal -- and lastly the sensual way they move, walk, and talk. Brazilians are not usually known for conservative or dowdy attire or physiques for that matter.
Moreover, the discovery of stunning Brazilian models such as Gisele Bundchen and Fernanda Tavares has drawn foreign attention to Brazil, along with the establishment of a serious fashion calendar that integrated separate fashion initiatives and events, as well as Brazil’s high quality of raw materials, and the use of their cultural heritage as a source of inspiration and creativity for Brazilian designers. Other fashion celebrities such as the influential fashion photographer Mario Testino, and fashion designer Isabella Blow, whose passion for Brazil’s fashion began after attending an edition of the Sao Paulo Fashion Week.
So how does the Brazilian National football team CBF, the most successful national football team with five FIFA World Cup victories and the only nation to have qualified for every World Cup, become a fashion icon recognized, at least unconsciously, by most people in the Western world? It’s a mystery.
The team’s home kit colors include a yellow shirt and shorts with green lines and lettering and their away kit is made up of a blue shirt and shorts with white lettering. Both designs are simple, classic, no nonsense, and most importantly -- recognizable. But their marketing does not just focus on selling to the standard clientele of male hardcore football fans and boys, but they also market to women having created the “Brazil Dress” marketed as “a must for a hot and steamy session of Samba dancing!” But Brazilian merchandizing planners don’t stop there. They also sell an authentic Brazilian national team jersey, as worn during their successful World Cup 2002 campaign embroidered with the 5 stars to represent their successes, very rare and collectable. Finally, they couldn’t forget to include an authentic Pele hero shirt. But the question remains, does any European club live up to Brazil’s success? Each one of them would like to, but do they?
We’ll start right here in Barcelona. Barcelona Fashion Week (BFW) -- gets bigger every year, featuring fashion shows and events from the three main organizations in the city: Moda Barcelona with its ever-famous Pasarela Gaudi; Circuit showcasing innovative designers; and ModaFAD designed to promote the youngest generation through their PasaFAD and MerkaFAD. In terms of fashion, it is clear to even an untrained eye, that the country has come a long way in one generation when the richest man in Spain is Amancio Ortega, magnate of the clothing store Zara.
Spain has established itself since the mid-1980’s with a strong national brand, helped along by the cultural influence of an active royal family, movies by Almodovar, the Barcelona 1992 Olympics, and even the classic Seat cars. No one’s surprised to see “Made in Spain” on fashionable and very pricey goods.
But do the football kits of Barça live up to the city’s fashion standards? But before tackling that question, the history of the club is worth mentioning and gives us some context to the discussion. It all began in the late 1800’s when Hans Gamper and ten other enthusiasts were playing an unknown sport called, “foot-ball” and then later founded the club on November 29, 1899.
Throughout some of Catalonia’s most difficult periods, the club’s flag represented the people’s hopes for freedom and continues to be symbolic today. Barcelona, by all standards, is one of the most highly decorated teams in the world and has been the only team in Europe to have participated in every European Cup since 1955 when the championship begun.
But are the kits as fashionable as the city? The new home kit incorporates a blue t-shirt with wide red vertical lines, although fortunately a bit less wide than in previous years, and red shorts, a dramatic change from a 92-year tradition of blue shorts. And for the first time, the t-shirt will incorporate a small Catalonia Flag design on the back of the collar and on the bottom part of the shorts; a directive by Joan Laporta to reinforce the ties between the club and the “country” or “region” – depending on how you see the history. The away kit is sometimes referred to as electric yellow or florescent pistachio with red details; an entire kit costing around 90 euros, which is pretty typical of most football kits.
It seems as if some fans are all for the new kits and others quite against them. Reading through the Barcelona FC chat rooms, one can find comments such as, “I personally like the new t-shirt, but well, the red shorts, I guess it’s a matter of getting used to. Now as you all know, everyone who has Barça t-shirts, throw them out and buy the new ones; since it’s got to pay for “fichaje/recruitment.” Other comments centered on the away kit with some fans feeling that this addition was truly innovative. “Now they’ll save electricity in Camp Nou, because with all that luminosity they won’t need so many light bulbs. Also, when the players have their day off, they can have them in their cars if they need to change a tire.” Others mention the new detail of the Catalonia flag. Some fans feel that it’s a “disaster” -- a way of relating the football club with Catalonia, although others feel it justified being that since Barça began as a club, due to a variety of historic circumstances, it’s more than just a football club; it’s a issue of identity with a large portion of the “pueblo Catalan.”
But finally, what all fans agree on is the fact that “it’s pure business… sell, sell, sell… imagine the shorts that would have been sold if they would have kept the blue color… few, few. By contrast, the red ones, since no one has them, sell sell sell!” However, unfortunately, the kits don’t quite make it. They could certainly come up with something a bit more chic for just a chic city.
So, on to Paris, hailed as the epicenter of European fashion, if not the world. Paris is home to haute couture, where fashion is timeless, sophisticated, and ultra elegant. But Paris’ charm doesn’t come merely from well renowned design houses but the “real” shows take place on the streets, in cafes, shops, and public places.
Again, their new kits don’t live up to the city’s reputation for high fashion. The home kit t-shirt is a marine blue with a wide red strip down the center bordered in white and with white lettering and blue shorts. The away kit is a bit better, a white t-shirt with subtle lines, black lettering, and white shorts. But what Paris Saint Germain is doing right, in order to capture a whole new segment of clientele, is offering an extensive selection of women’s and men’s lingerie, from pajama dresses, bras, bikinis, tangas, boxers, and jockey shorts, all of course with the club’s emblem and with starting prices ranging from 10 to 20 euros an item. Not a bad business.
Now moving across to the United Kingdom; Chelsea began its rise to fame in the fashion world in the mid-60’s when Mary Quant began making short waist slimming mini-dresses and skirts that were about 6 or 7 inches above the knee. She didn’t invent the mini but in 1965 she took the basic idea from Courreges and made the design even shorter. Quant found that London teenagers, constantly on the look-out for new styles, were only too willing to try her daring new style. However, because of how short the dresses and skirts were, to wear it well you had to be youthful and ultimately proved controversial along adults. Soon the Quant style was known as the “Chelsea Look.”
But what made the mini acceptable was the introduction of pantyhose known today as “tights.” Tights offered women protection from the elements and didn’t show off any unseemly stocking tops. Along with tights, flat boots also became very popular with the Chelsea Look, rising up the leg and reaching the knee. As with other eras, many different things influenced the fashion in the 1960’s: easier travel abroad, daring fashion photography, the Vietnam War, social mobility, music by the Beatles, and pop art played a major role in creating an accepted fashion culture.
But fashion today in Chelsea continues to hit the mark. It’s world recognized for its vintage clothes shops on King’s Road, sought after around the world. Specializing in vintage clothing from different eras, and from countries, vintage clothes hunters, including fashion designers, stylists, and celebrities spend countless hours rummaging through its stores. But don’t think that it won’t cost you… You’re sure to find an original Pucci, Dior and Chanel, even Balenciaga as well as fantastic jewelry and other accessories, but it will cost you dearly.
One of the United Kingdom’s most famous fashion designers started out in Chelsea: Vivienne Westwood, and has only helped to create and maintain Chelsea’s ultra hip character. Westwood began designing clothes in the early 1970’s using her shop at 430 King’s Road as her creative outlet. Initially the store was known as “Let it Rock” but later became famous in 1974 when it was known as “Sex” specializing in selling rubberwear, bondage gear, and t-shirts printed with cultural slogans. A few years later, she began working with McLaren, at the time the manager of the Sex Pistols, which helped make her name become synonymous with the insurgence of the punk movement in London. She held her first catwalk in 1981, less than 25 years ago, but remains one of Britain’s most original and world famous designer. Once in an interview with Irene Holden in London she said that “fashion is about sex. Fashion is about eventually being naked.” In another interview she stated that, “Fashion is very important. It is life enhancing and, like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing well” -- interesting comments to say the least.
So, is Chelsea FC doing it “right”? Unfortunately, I’d have to say no. However, I have been told that Chelsea FC was the first British team “not to have players with a face like a robber’s dog!” And clearly that’s a good thing. The kits, however, leave a bit to be desired.
The home kit is a medium blue t-shirt with white lettering and blue shorts but their major fashion faux pas comes from the white socks! That just doesn’t scream fashionable… everything to the contrary. It’s almost like tourists wearing shorts and sandals with white socks! And we all hate that. Fortunately, the away kit is better: a white t-shirt with a boomerang style design on the shoulders with black lettering and black shorts with the same design in white. Not bad at all.
Finally, we come to Milan. Milan is said by many to be “Heaven on Earth” for shopping. You can find the best of everything when it comes to fashion. The city has a long-standing history of creative outlets: the Polytechnic and the Accademia di Brera has trained local and international fashion designers for decades, exhibiting their unique style in Milan, creating scandal and revolutionizing world fashion, among them Giorgio Armani, foremost symbol of elegance in the 1980’s and still a magnate in the fashion world today; Miuccia Prada, who took over the family’s accessories company in 1978 and later created a world famous empire with her minimalist and chic leather bags in the 1980’s and 1990’s; Dolce & Gabbana, considered the most famous couple in the Italian fashion world, recognized for their ever-changing and evolving style appreciated by “chameleon-like” stars such as Madonna; Gianfranco Ferre, who having studied architecture and after returning from India, began his career in fashion and is seen as one the of fashion designers who use a rational and structured style to create his designs; and last but not least, Versace, who moved to Milan in the 1970’s to work for other designers, but with the help of his brother created an aggressive label characterized by incorporating unusual colors and shapes into his fashions.
AC Milan, as with the city itself, has an interesting founding history. The club was established in 1899, its founders three Englishmen: Kilpin, Allison, and Davies, who over a pint of beer, came to the idea and proposed it to two businessmen: Edwards and Nathan and to another person: Barnett. Edwards later became the first club president of the new Milan Cricket and Football Club. The club’s goal was to play cricket as much as they could and promote football which at the time was still not too popular. One of the first Board of Directors was Pierro Pirelli, future president of the club and a most important historical figure. The establishment of the club continued to spread and Milan gained more and more supporters.
Milanello, known worldwide as one of the best training centers a football team could hope for, hosts one of the best football clubs in history with intense ups and downs. One of the greatest periods began in the early 1960’s with the purchase of Gianni Rivera, who later won the European Footballer of the Year Award and until the 1970’s AC Milan became the most successful Italian team winning a Winners Cup, becoming finalists in another Winners Cup, and winning three Italian Cups. But bad things started to happen when the team did not win the title and Rivera’s career came to an end, thus the beginning of one of the darkest periods of the club’s history.
The history of the red-black stripes t-shirt was designed by one of its founders, Kilpin, who was inspired by English side shirts, who at the time had a shirt with stripes and a badge with a cross on a background. That’s the reason why the Milan emblem represents a red cross on a white background. Milan was also the first team, who in 1981 printed their players’ names on the back of the shirts. And interestingly enough, that same season, the club introduced on the shirt a devil image on the right breast, where later the name of the sponsor was placed… telling or coincidence? In addition, the club typically used a black goalkeeper’s shirt to intimidate the “enemies,” a savvy tactic.
On the whole, AC Milan with its home and away kits “does fashion” the best. The home kit is a red-black narrow striped t-shirt with a collared shirt with white lettering and matching shorts. Even the emblem is pretty chic. The away kit also does the trick, a white t-shirt with a red collar with black trim and red and black stripes on the sleeves with matching white shorts. Even the third kit hits the mark with and all black t-shirt and matching shorts with red details on the shirt and red stripes on the shorts.
But the club’s fashion taste doesn’t stop there. They also offer football fashion for all those women interested in looking good while watching a match or simply making a fashion statement. They sell a nice white shell with black trim on the lower part of the jacket and on the lower part of the arms in black for 55 euros, two stylish white tank tops with black very flattering lines going down the sides of the shirt. And finally, two other tailored t-shirts, one a copy of the home kit shirt but tailored to fit a woman’s body and a more simple v-neck red t-shirt with white sleeves and black trim.
AC Milan is doing it all right. Now they can be seen as a “fashionable” team. But will it gain the world renowned fame as the national team from Brazil? I guess time will tell… |